07/13/2023 02:04PM
Here is a trip report from 1994 of that area.
Safe Paddles qp
Todd and I started planning this trip in November of 1993, by setting up a basic route thru the western part of Quetico Park. A loop that starts at Prairie Portage, continues through 36 different lakes, creeks, and rivers. With a total of 55 portages.
All the trips in the past have been in the eastern or middle parts of the park. With that being the case we decided to go west and north. Our entry point was number 52 Sarah Lake.
Day 1
We took an early morning tow from Moose Lake to Prairie Portage, so we could get farther into the park for our first nights camp. Arriving at Prairie shortly after 7:00 am. We had to wait about an hour for the Customs Station to open. But a well worth wait to be the first ones on the water. Or arriving late and waiting in line for another hour. After customs we went to the Rangers Station to pay our camping fees and to get our fishing licenses.
Well it’s 8:30 am were on the water heading northwest up Inlet Bay. Lucky for us the water is calm on Bayley Bay. We made great time paddling across the bay.
The portage to Burke Lake is just a nice level walk. One of the easiest in the park that I’ve been on.
We paddled north across Burke Lake to the next portage.
The portage here is just a short lift over not much at all.
Paddling on up the creek to the next portage to North Bay. There are two different ones. The one to the east is longer but mostly easy other than the rocks along the path.
The other portage to the west is a lot short but you will be required to paddle thru a rocky area of small rapids If you do this portage it will put you much farther to the west on North Bay.
Passing to the west side of the island, just out from the Burke Creek portage. We then shot on a straight heading to the northwest shore , then following the shore from there up to Lost Bay area. The portage is hard to find do to the grass and reeds growing in the channel.
The portage is easy and short. Guessing I’d say about 2 rods.
Once we were on the Unnamed, we stayed to the west shore looking for Isabella Creek. Isabella Creek is more of just a small channel with grass growing up in a swamp. The creek has many forks in it but you can see by the current as to which way to go. Near the end of the creek there is a shallow area. This area required some wading to get to the portage.
The portage isn’t that bad up over a small hill then swampy on Isabella Lake side.
As we paddled to the south down Isabella Lake, we noticed a nice campsite. It is located near the middle of the lake. It is a really nice campsite with a topside view from the cliff in the back. After eating lunch on the campsite we headed on to the next portage.
We found the portage on the west shore of Isabella Lake in the south end of the lake. The portage is fairly easy with small hills up and down though out it. Rocky too. There is another portage on the south side of the creek it is however the harder of the two.
After we were on the Unnamed Lake we headed almost due west, to the small bay area in the west side. This route isn’t traveled much and it requires one longer portage but it is the easiest way in my opinion. Watch for moose in this bay area I’ve saw them there twice.
The next portage is a longer one but mostly flat. At about the half way point it opens up to a swamp. It does require a walk around the swamp. (I have seen this swamp area when the water is up and it can be really muddy.) (However on my 2000 year trip it was all grown up in weeds and it was a easy walk.) Once you are at the swamp area you can clearly see the lake straight ahead.
It is just a short paddle across to the next portage. This is a nice lake I don’t believe many people go this way. Offers a lot of seclusion.
The portage to Side Lake is another long one but mostly flat. It does climb slightly on the both ends on it, but not much. If you are lucky to be there in the spring the is a beautiful ice formation on the west side of the portage again about half way thru. As you near Side Lake there is the famous Heart Stop Ridge Portage. Looking to the east you will see why we go this way. It is a very steep hill to climb.
Paddling up Side Lake we see our Sarah Lake Portage. There is a stream and you can see it. There are two different portages here. One long one over a big hill or three shorter one’s requiring you to put in and out.
The portage leads along the creek you can put the first two section into one portage if you want but the last section would be a long walk.
NOTE: There is a nice campsite on Side Lake on the southwest shore.
On Sarah Lake we stayed on a westward heading across Sarah Lake. Then portaging into Tuck Lake.
The portage from Sarah Lake to Tuck Lake is very easy. Nice flat sandy path and short as well.
Across Tuck Lake and a portage into an Unnamed Lake.
Another sandy, flat and short portage.
Well it has been a long day for us. We both felt that we have accomplished a lot by getting this far. One more portage then time to find a campsite.
This one as the last two sandy, flat, and short. (Good thing cause we both are tired.)
After getting on Robinson Lake we paddled to the larger island. We has heard that there was a nice campsite there.
Well we heard right a really nice campsite in a thicket on trees.
Day 2
Awoke this morning to a warm sunny morning. Broke camp around 7:30 and we were on the water by 8:00. Both Todd and I are sore today, but not nearly as bad as we thought we would be last night.
Once in the canoe we headed north to look for the portage to McIntyre Lake. At the north end of Robinson Lake we, began to look for the portage. Having a hard time finding it, but we did. A tree had fallen across the opening on the shore side of it. Blocking the entrance.
As we made our way across this portage, we found that it is one of those portages that haven’t been used in a long time. This is a long and difficult portage. The over growth made it not only hard to carry the packs and canoe. But it also made it hard to just stay on the trail. About 5 minutes into it, we came into a rocky area. Very large bolters, walking around them was very hard. Plus the moss growing around made them slick and holes below the moss. Todd stepped in one of these holes and fell. Caught himself with his hand. But sprained it and we weren’t sure if it was fractured or not. I helped him up and we finished the portage. Which has quite a climb at the end of it. Doubling on the portage as in two trips it took almost 2 hours.
We finished the portage on the first trip. Todd’s hand was really hurting him so I alone returned for the canoe.
The Inlet into McIntyre Lake is quit a beautiful place. We decided to take a lunch break at a campsite just to the north after we were on the main part of the lake.
We ate lunch and rested for a while. Todd’s arm was really swelling up and had a hot feeling to it. We sat and pondered on if we should head back out or continue on with the planned trip.
The sun was out and it was really hot so we decided to just wash our cloths and swim in the lake awhile. Turns out the cool lake water was the best ice pack we could have ask for Todd’s arm.
Our goal today was to be Argo Lake, but there was now no way we could make it. We decided to head to Scarlet Lake instead. The portages were easier and once we were on Brent Lake there would be lots of paddling, which I knew I could handle on my own if need be.
We figured if Todd’s arm got worst then we would just head out thru Lac La Croix Lake. If it got better or seemed ok then we would continue on with the rest of the trip
Arriving at the portage to Scarlet Lake.
The portage is mostly just a lift over. A rocky one but not very long.
On the portage we ran into a couple that had just come from Argo Lake. Boy were we wise in our choice. Turns out they had been wading in waist deep mud on that portage. And they advised us to use the Darky River Portage if we were going to Argo Lake
Brent Lake is a big lake but only because it is long and strung out. We had a head wind to bear with too.
After paddling across the north end of Brent Lake we were looking for a portage that is suppose to cut across the north end. No luck though in finding it. So we paddled south then again west to the Darky River Portage.
The portage is long but rather easy. Down hill some but gradual.
After the portage we paddled across a small Unnamed Lake the portaging again.
This is a really easy portage as well.
We are on Darky Lake and it’s 6:30. We decided that it was time to find a camp. But by the looks of things you would have thought that everyone was camping on Darky Lake that night. With all the campsites taken we headed on to the north end of the lake. Finally finding a campsite on an island near the opening to the Darky River.
We were so tired that we ate dinner set up camp and went to sleep. Didn’t even build a campfire that night.
Day 3
We were really tired yesterday. We managed to sleep in this morning until 9:30. Todd’s arm appeared to be much better today, so we are definitely continuing on with our trip. Our goal today is going to be Tanner Lake.
The Darky River is kind of swampy with grass under the water flowing with the current.
All the portage along the Darky River are short and easy. Most just lift overs.
As we came into the opening to Minn Lake we decided to move to the south and find a place to take a lunch and rest for a while. We stopped on the peninsular just past the small bay.
Unpacked the packs and cooked lunch. Then just resting and enjoying the peace and quiet. When we both saw a Bald Eagle soaring up in the sky in the bay to the north. It soon then landed perching it’s self in a large spruce tree. We took some pictures and then loaded the packs up and headed across Minn Lake. To the portage’s which will take us to the Maligne River.
The first portage was long but easy to do.
After this portage it get a bit tricky. There were time we thought that we were in the wrong place. But as luck would have it, we were. Just before reaching a very large beaver dam, we turned to the north. We then lifted over three more beaver dams. But still no Maligne River. Our maps showed three portages but there are actually four.
Once we were on the Maligne River we headed up stream. You really had to watch the large bolters just under the water surface. Plus the current you could really feel it paddling up stream. We paddled up thru two sets of small rapids. It wasn’t hard; you just had to watch what was going on.
Finally reaching the Tanner Rapids.
The portage around the Tanner Rapids was short and easy. It is a really nice area.
Once on the water on Tanner Lake we started looking for a campsite. The first we found was already taken so we paddled on to the south. Finding one on an Island near the Andrews Creek Portage. We built a campfire, ate, and set up camp. Then enjoyed one of the best sunsets of our trip.
Day 4
We woke up early again so we were on the water again by 7:30. Heading on up Tanners Lake, we passed thru the flat rapids next to Poohbah Creek.
The next three portages are about the same. Starting with a climb at first then leveling out. The portage are a must though, there is by no means anyway one could paddle threw the creek.
Now we are on Sturgeon Lake. There is a strong wind out of the southwest. We used it to our advantage and flew across Sturgeon Lake. Stopping in an island out in the middle for lunch. While we were eating lunch we decided that we would just go to Scripture Island for the night.
Campsite: Nice camp on a sandy beach on Sturgeon Lake. Location is on the south shore about half way up the main part of the lake.
Following the southern shoreline we paddled up to the Sturgeon Narrows. Arriving at Scripture Island we found a campsite. But we both agreed we had, had much better camps. So we moved on towards the narrows.
At this point Todd had his fishing pole out, and he was getting bites. But not lucky enough to land one. Finally he hooked one, a large pike. But as he was bringing it in it broke his line. Well unlucky enough tonight, no fish for dinner.
We set up camp on the point to the east just before turning to the north again in the Narrows. The wind was blowing hard still so the bugs weren’t bad. It blew most all night, with rain in the very early morning.
Day 5
Today we are planning on eating lunch at Chatterton Falls and setting up camp on Keat Lake tonight. We took our time this morning breaking camp. Figured since we weren’t going to far today we had might as well take our time.
Our first portage is the one to Russell Lake. We paddled up to the one on the north end of Russell Lake. We figured a little bit more paddling but a much shorter portage.
Paddling up to the portage, up in the creek a little. Not really much of a portage, but it wouldn’t be a very good idea to try to run the rapids. They look very unsafe and fast. There are some very big red pine trees along this side on the lake.
Once we were on Russell Lake we headed toward Chatterton Falls. The wind had picked up stirring up some white caps. Lucky for us the wind was almost straight out of the west. As we neared the middle of the lake the wind was really blowing the white caps were topping into the canoe. So we decided with that plus the rain we would just pass on the falls and head on south to the portage.
The portage is kind of hard to find. It is located up in the point. When you get close to the shore you will see it. The portage has a good climb to it, with it leveling out about half way thru.
We met a couple guys on the portage they were heading to Kawnipi Lake. With those two paddling on Chatterton Lake, we decided to head south and portage into McDougall Lake. After doing the portage into McDougall Lake we took a lunch break. Just as we were shoving off on McDougall Lake it started to rain again. Even with the misting rain McDougall Lake is very nice.
Just a short paddle across the north end of the lake and were at our portage.
This is another one of those tough portages, but worth it. It starts with a very steep hill to climb. Then leveling out until you see Keat Lake. Then it drops very steeply. Before it drops thought the view is splendid, over looking Keats Lake.
Once we got out on the water we started looking for a campsite. We crossed thru a narrow channel from the west side to the east side of the lake. We found a grand campsite on the island midway across the eastern side of the lake. The site has a stone cliff facing Snake Falls (great view).
We got camp all set up by mid-afternoon we were fishing. I caught a small walleye, but Todd was not having any luck at all. They just didn’t seem to be biting.
We decided to eat an early dinner, then paddle over below the fall and try our luck. After fishing below the falls for a couple hours we finally gave up.
We got back to camp made a pot of coffee. The wind was blowing harder again and it was cooling down. We just sat around the campfire to keep warm, and enjoyed the view of the falls. We gave up trying to keep warn and went to the tent.
Day 6
We broke camp and headed for Snake Falls.
Last night in camp we had talked about which way we should go around the falls. Either doing the Have a Smoke Portage or the portage to the south. Then a guy soloing, paddled by our camp we talked to him about it some. As he had just came from the south portage. He said that the south portage appeared not to be used much, plus the berries were plentiful along the portage. That was all it took the word berries.
The portage wasn’t used much at all. It was over grown and had trees down across it everywhere. Any yes the berries were plentiful, blueberries and raspberries. The portage ends in a small pond of water. Just at the edge of the rapids near the top of the falls.
We loaded the canoe tied everything in and shoved off into the swift current. We paddled up stream to where the stream narrows again then turning to the east. At this point there was what appeared to be just a small ripple in the current, and not seeing a portage we decided we had been on more difficult water. So we apt to paddle thru. Big mistake! What appeared as a ripple was a sucking undertow, an in the matter of maybe a second the canoe was gone. Todd too!
It threw me toward the east shore, Todd and the canoe went towards the west shore. I can recall surfacing and facing down stream. Looking toward the falls as our maps and loose gear were floating rapidly towards them. Also swimming with my high top boot was a task that seemed imposable. Once they filled with water all I could really do was use my arms and float to shore. Once I got on shore I frantically looked for Todd and the canoe. I had managed to throw my paddle to the shore while I was in the water.
Looking across the stream I saw him. He was clinging to a tree limb with one hand the other on the canoe. Some how the packs had managed to stay in the canoe. He was tiring very fast though. I stripped down to just my long underwear and removed my boots, put my life vest back on and jumped in. Swimming was difficult in the current but I soon made it to him.
He was exhausted from fighting the current. I grabbed the canoe and the tree telling him to rest a second. There was a rock ledge about three feet under the water where we were; standing on it we got the canoe unloaded. Then flipping the canoe over to drain it standing in the current. Once we had accomplished this we reloaded the canoe. Paddling across to where my cloths were.
After we had gotten out there we found the portage. And looking at the current from that point we could see that there was no way we could have made it thru it.
We unloaded the canoe then the pack to start the drying out process. We rung out our cloths laid them to dry.
While our cloths were drying we paddled down stream to the portage. Portaged the canoe back to Keats Lake. Once on Keats Lake we started looking for our lost gear and the maps in the floating bag. We paddled all around but couldn’t find any thing. We even walked the shoreline on both side of the falls to see if it had gotten stuck on a rock. No such luck though. So we headed back to the area where are packs were, figuring we would regroup and decide our next move.
Taking in all of our loses were, all of our maps, Todd’s new gore tex hat, my tape recorder, one water bottle, and most of our food supply. Although our dried food was secured in zip lock bags and double bagged, the force of the water was so great it got into them. However we were both thankful to be alive. We both noted that had we not had our seda. Life vest on we felt sure we would have drowned.
We decided being we had no maps that we had better get ahead to an area we knew. We knew the Kahshahpiwi area from two years ago. We winged it across Shelly Lake to the portage into Kahshahpiwi Creek. We planned to make Cairn Lake we knew a campsite there on an island.
Arriving there about 1:00 pm. We quickly strung lines to get the sleeping bags dried out. Lucky for us the sun had come out and had a nice warm southwest wind blowing. One time when we were glad to have that strong wind.
By nightfall most of our stuff had dried, the blanket was damp but not wet. We sat around the campfire that night talking about our little swim today. And how lucky we were to have had our vest on. We made mental notes about how important it is to be alert at all times in canoe country. With this being my sixth trip and Todd’s fifth, even the seasoned canoeist can take that unwanted bath. We decided that our best bet was to paddle out as soon as possible. With our low food supply and the fact that this was two time of bad luck on this trip.
Day 7
As we decided last night we plan to get as close to Prairie Portage as we can today. Yesterdays spill just dampened the spirit of the whole trip. We had a nice warm calm day to do it in too.
The first portage wasn’t hard, a little rocky but it seemed short.
We paddled across Sark Lake to the next portage.
The portage top Keefer Lake was about the same as the last one. More rocky than anything else.
It seemed the portages were short and easier than they were two years ago. After paddling down Keefer Lake and over into the small bay was the portage.
This portage was just a short lift over.
Once on Kahshahpiwi Lake we stayed to the west shore. There was just enough wind now to make the paddling more like work than play. Plus the west shore block most of the wind. On the south end of the lake we stopped to look at the Indian Painting. It was more, just to take a break I think. Then heading over to the portage. We weren’t sure as to what to expect on the next portage. The last time I was on Kahshahpiwi Lake we entered from McNiece Lake. But we knew that we had been on the lake on the other side six days ago.
The portage was long but easy. It has a slight down hill grade to it all the way to Side Lake. The trail was sandy most of the way. Ending in a small swampy area along a large rock cliff.
After putting in the water we paddled thru a shallow area. Thinking we were on Side Lake, but not the case. We had to portage again before we are on Side Lake
This portage was only a about a rod or so, over a small hill.
Near the mid way point of Side Lake we saw the portage which we had taken on our first day. Then on down to the next portage.
This is the portage, which has the split in it. Last week we came in on the west side. This time we are going to do the Heart Stop Ridge. Wow! What a hill. And it was just about straight up too. After we both went thru with the packs Todd doubled back for the canoe. He packed it to the top of the hill then I took it from there. This is a busy portage; we met two different groups of four in each group. After toping the hill it is flat for a while with it then dropping down the next lake.
Once we were on the water we put the paddle into high gear. We wanted to put some distance between us and the other two groups coming up behind us.
Two short portages and we were on Isabella Lake.
We paddled northeast up Isabella Lake to the portage to Isabella Creek. Making a note as to how many people we have seen today. I think more than we have seen on the whole trip so far.
Repeating the Isabella Creek portage. As well as the Creek only in reverse.
Then the short portage to North Bay (Basswood Lake).
Once we were on North Bay we decided it was time to find a campsite. It was getting late and we both were tired. We have come quit a distance today. But as it was late all the campsites on this side of North Bay were taken.
Neither one of us wanting to paddle North Bay. We were looking at a head wind and the white caps were rolling pretty high too. But we did, we paddled straight across the northeast end then followed the shore to the Burke Creek Portage.
We took the east portage to Burke Creek. Not really much of a portage just rocky.
We put in the creek paddled to the next portage.
Of which was just a short lift over.
After all of that we paddled to the south end of Burke Lake. Camping on the island near the Bayley Bay Portage. This is a nice campsite; there is an excellent view of the lake behind the campsite on top of the hill on this island. I’d guess it to be a couple hundred feet above the water.
As tired as we were to night there was no trouble falling asleep. Even with the party on the next island. They were yelling and being very loud just before dark.
We had a quick bit to eat then off to bed.
Day 8
We awoke this morning feeling pretty darn good. I figured I would be really sore, but I wasn’t. We quickly broke camp and loaded the canoe. It was just a short paddle to the portage. We were eating a granola bar as we paddled.
Done the easy portage to Bayley Bay.
Once on the water we kicked it in doing a hard steady paddle to Prairie Portage. We were ready to get home now. We arrived at Prairie Portage around 9:00 am. Called for a tow to Moose Lake Landing. We were back at LaTourell Outfitters taking a warm shower by 10:30.
Take your journey and never look back. Life is too short, not to enjoy the necessities of the north woods.
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